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Miss Chen
Hace 19 horas
Miss Chen
大部分花卉在生长的时候,都是需要追施肥料来补充营养的,因为花盆面积和土壤的营养是有限度的,只有正确施肥,才能让植株长的更好。很多花友都搞不清楚复合肥浇花比例是多少,一般来说肥水比例在1:1000为宜,不会过浓也不会过稀。
一、复合肥浇花比例1:1000为宜 由于每种复合肥所含的元素和比例都不同,所以这里以氮磷钾含量为15~16%的复合肥作为对照,这种复合肥比较适合给花卉施加的。此复合肥浇花比例是1:1000,也就是1000ml的水里面加入一克的复合肥。 在施肥的时候要将肥水搅拌均匀,等到肥料完全溶解的时候再施用,避免没有溶解的肥料导致烧根。在土壤湿润的时候,可以正常施加肥水,如果盆土比较干旱,就需要将浓度调低,可以调至1:1500的比例。不知道复合肥浇花比例是多少的花友,就尽量用稀薄的肥水浇花吧。
二、给花卉施加复合肥的方法 1、控制浓度 常见的比例上面已经说了,以稀释一千倍为宜,但不同种类的花卉对肥料的需求量是不一样的,如果是比较喜肥的植物,可以适当的加高浓度。同样的如果不怎么需要肥料的,为了促进生长也可以适当的施加一些比较稀薄的肥水,记住一定要薄肥勤施。 2、埋土施肥 在给花卉施肥的时候,可以直接埋在土壤中,但这种方法的风险比较大,因为颗粒肥埋入土中后不容易分解,如果离根系太近还容易烧根,要土埋的话,一定要与根系隔开。 3、施浇肥水 将肥料融水的话,是比较安全的,而且施肥的比例也非常均衡。直接将配制好的肥水均匀的浇灌在盆土中即可,但要避免将肥水沾到叶片上,肥水可能会灼伤叶片。 三、复合肥浇花的作用 一般用来浇花的复合肥含有氮磷钾三元素,但有些花友不知道这氮、磷、钾分别有什么作用。简单来说就是氮肥促进叶片生长、磷肥促进花果发育、钾肥促进茎干茁壮。 1、氮肥促进叶片 氮肥是植物生长发育的主要元素,只有在氮肥充足的时候,植物才能合成较多的蛋白质,促进细胞的分裂生长,让叶片飞速生长。所以在植物生长的期间,需要多施加氮肥,这样才能让植株长得更好。 2、磷肥促进花果 磷肥在早期的时候能够促进根系的生长,能够提高植物的免疫能力,磷对植物有着催熟的作用,能够提高植物花果的产量与品质,对于开花结果的植物来说是必不可少的,所以在花果期前后都要适当的追施磷肥。 3、钾肥促进茎干 钾肥能够促进光合作用,提高植物对氮元素的吸收,钾元素能够增强植物对环境的适应能力,让其能够忍受各种恶劣的环境,常见的如干旱、低温、病虫害以及倒伏。所以在植物生长开花期间都是不能少了钾肥的。 结语:看完上面的内容,相信大家应该知道复合肥浇花的比例以及使用方法了,在适当的时期给花卉植物合理的施肥,就不愁生长不够好开花不够艳的。
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Artículo
Miss Chen
Hace 19 horas
Miss Chen
朱缨花属灌木和小乔木科,适当修剪可长成漂亮的树形。以下五个方面全面介绍了朱缨花属的养殖方法,喜欢的花友,可以参考养殖做为盆栽,因为朱缨花的花型较大,做好造型开花后很适合观赏,繁殖方法也简单易学,适合家庭养殖。
一、朱缨花属的养殖方法 1、土壤 养殖朱缨花属的土壤,要深厚肥沃。种植配土是要加入基肥,同时可加入河沙,珍珠岩,可提高透气性和排水性。朱缨花对酸碱度没要求,只要是透气排水好,用园土和腐殖土都可以。 2、温度 朱缨花适合在温暖的环境中养殖,20℃~30℃的温度适合它的生长,温度过高,停止生长,注意遮荫;温度低于15℃,需要给予保暖,所以,南方地区一般适合它,北方的冬季过于寒冷,朱缨花不好过冬。 3、光照 朱缨花喜欢光照,充足的光照才能使其开花,枝繁叶茂,光照不足,叶子泛黄,开花也会受到影响。但是,夏季阳光过于强烈,中午朱缨花需要遮荫,冬季放于温暖的阳光可以照射的位置。 4、浇水 朱缨花喜湿不耐干,养殖朱缨花的盆土要保持湿润。因此,养殖朱缨花需要经常浇水,平时观察盆土表面干了,就可以浇水,但是也不要太多,过多的水会长期根部积水,会引起疾病和根部腐烂。 5、施肥 朱缨花喜肥,种植前的配土时要加入基肥,生长期每月都要施肥,这个时期以度合肥为主,保证植株生长的营养;花期到来时,以鳞、钾肥为主,可以促进花色和花蕾的形成。
二、养殖朱缨花的注意事项 1、修剪树枝 朱缨花属灌木,掌握住朱缨花属的养殖方法,就可以将其养的很高大,一般观赏的话,两米左右的高度即可。所以,在朱缨花植株达到2米左右的高度时,就要开始修剪了,剪除枯枝败叶、病枝和影响植株造型的枝干,促其长出新芽,丰满树冠。 2、防护病虫害 朱缨花容易生的一般是天牛、木虱两种虫害,初发虫害不严重时,可人工清楚,数量较多,可用杀虫剂喷洒杀虫;另外,朱缨花容易患溃疡病,发病初期可以喷洒稀释的退菌特治疗,防止面积扩大。 三、朱缨花的繁殖方法 1、播种法 朱缨花采中一般在花期结束后的10月进行,收集饱满的种子存贮,保持干燥通风,第二年春来到来时,将种子用60度的水浸泡三天,每天换水一次,然后播种在湿润的土壤里,一周左右即可发芽,长出幼苗。 2、扦插法 朱缨花播种和扦插两种繁殖方式都可以,一般使用扦插繁殖的较多,相对来说操作简单些。在春季朱缨花的生长期,剪取20厘米长的健康的朱缨花的枝条,插于事先准备的沙土中,保持15℃~30℃的温度,保持盆土湿润,置于阴凉通风的位置,等待生根长出新枝。 朱缨花属的养殖方法,5个方面手把手教会养殖朱缨花 结语:朱缨花主要用作景观树和家庭盆栽,养植方法以上文字介绍的很详细,五个方面全方位入手不怕养不好朱缨花。
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-07
Miss Chen
If you are unfamiliar with Tillandsia or Tillys, as they are affectionately called by air plant aficionados, this article is going to introduce you to one of the genera’s most popular species. Most plants of the genus are epiphytes, which means they grow on and take nutrients and moisture from other plants, rather than from the soil. Some plants in the genus do not even need another plant and can grow on constantly moving desert sand. This is definitely different from most people’s idea of how a plant grows. Most air plants are unique-looking and Tillandsia bulbosa is certainly a great example of this. The bulbous air plant is an otherworldly looking species that features tendrils that appear from a prominent bulb at the base. This is, of course, where it gets both its botanical name and its common name. The leaves of bulbousa are a dark green that turn a really lovely violet when the plant is ready to bloom. Don't expect a floral display every year, though, as it only flowers once in its lifetime. Once it blooms it then offsets pups and will clump or can be separated from the mother plant. Air plants are normally easy to grow but bulbosa is especially easy as it has very relaxed watering needs. If you are interested in trying your hand at an air plant, this is the perfect starter option. For people with a notoriously black thumb, who want to grow a plant in the worst way, air plants are the most sensible option, and Tillandsia bulbosa is really the best bet in succeeding with air plants. Botanical Name Tillandsia bulbosa Common Name Bulbous Air Plant Plant Type perennial herbaceous Mature Size 4–7 inches Sun Exposure Bright, indirect light or part shade Soil Type None Soil pH None Bloom Time Once per lifetime Flower Color Violet Hardiness Zones 9–11 Native Area Mexico, Central and South America
Tillandsia Bulbosa Care Caring for Tillandsia bulbosa is extremely simple. Unlike most plants, the bulbosa will not need a container or soil. The vessel for displaying the air plant can be something as improvised as a found shell or a piece of driftwood. It can be suspended from a piece of wire or it can be placed in something as elaborate as a terrarium. Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.Light Tillandsia bulbosa is very adaptable to light and partial shade. It does not particularly like bright sun and would prefer indirect light and partial shade, but it is a flexible plant. Soil Placing the plant in soil is actually going to harm it as it will cause moisture to remain in its hollow bulb and create the opportunity for rot. Water Watering a bulbosa is an easy task. Air plants differ from other plants in how they absorb water as they do not use their root system. Their roots are mainly used to secure them to other plants or rocks. Instead, along the leaves of tillandsias are tiny hair-like structures called trichomes and this is how they take in moisture. The Bulbosa’s habitat is a relatively wet region so the leaves do not have an excess amount of trichomes, and they appear smooth. In air plants that live in drier climates, the number of trichomes will be profuse and give the air plants that famous silver or white look they are known for. For bulbosa, it will usually only need two or three light mistings every week with a spray bottle. Try not to soak the leaves. Temperature and Humidity The Tillandsia bulbosa is native to the humid climates of South and Central America. It likes a moist environment and this can be achieved with regular, light mistings. The temperature is flexible as long as it remains above 55o Fahrenheit. Fertilizer Fertilizing is not necessary, but if you feel the need to fertilize seek out a specially formulated tillandsia variety. Tillandsia Bulbosa Varieties The wild type of Tillandsia bulbosa is really stunning and long-lasting. But one of the great things about the Bulbous air plant is the number of hybrids and cultivars that are commercially available. They offer a wide choice of colors, shapes and size while demanding no further care. The cultivars range in size from Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Baby’, which is quite small, to the absolutely huge Tillandsia bulbosa ‘Gigante’. Hybrids range from Tillandsia bulbosa x ionantha ‘Joel’ to Tillandsia Lucille x bulbosa ‘The Perfect Blend’ which change not only the form but color of the plant. Propagating Tillandsia Bulbosa It is also so easy to create new plants in this species. They put out offsets, called pups, at the base of the original plant. When these form to around half the size of the mother plant, you can easily remove them to mount them in a separate position. Although bulbosa can be grown from seed it isn't an easy proposition and germination can take many months or even years.
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-07
Miss Chen
鸡屎藤是一种常见的中药材,虽然名字很不雅观,但鸡屎藤的紫色花朵长得是非常好看的。除了作为药材之外,也有人将其养在家中当作观赏植物的。而鸡屎藤的繁殖方法一般为播种与扦插,一般都是在春天进行。除了繁殖外,想要鸡屎藤长得好,还需要合理适当的养护。 一、繁殖鸡屎藤的方法 1、播种繁殖 鸡屎藤种子的收集一般在每年的10~11月份,选择饱满的鸡屎藤种子,将种子筛选完之后用比较潮湿的沙保存起来,等到第二年播种,也就是第二年的春天3~4月份的时候。 在播种前,先在合适的土地上挖一个深7厘米,长宽30厘米的大坑,再往坑中均匀的播撒10粒左右的种子,最后用土填满再往上面覆盖一层草木灰即可。一段时间后就会生根发芽,冒出土壤了。 2、扦插繁殖 在鸡屎藤的繁殖方法中,扦插最好在每年的2~3月份进行,一半选择2年生以上的健壮老藤。在选择好之后,将这一段鸡屎藤修剪到大约30厘米左右,茎藤上要有3节以上的插条,插条上至少有一个芽节。 扦插时要在适宜的土壤中挖一个20厘米左右的深坑,长宽在30厘米左右,一个坑里面可以放3根茎藤。放好之后,然后填上土壤,每根茎藤要有1个芽节露出土面,然后将土壤压紧,并浇上适量的水保持盆土湿润。
二、鸡屎藤的养护技巧 1、适量浇水 鸡屎藤一般是在露地种植的,所以浇水量要根据降雨量来具体的调节,一般来说是不需要进行人工浇水的,除非是遇到长期不下雨导致干旱的情况。如果遇到降水过多的情况,那就需要适当的排水,避免积水烂根。 2、把控温度 鸡屎藤适应环境的能力是比较强的,除了严寒之外,其他的季节气候都是能够正常生长的。如果冬季的温度比较低,那就需要采取适当的防寒措施,比如傍晚再晚上结冰之前给植株浇水,以保持一定的温度。 3、合理施肥 春夏两季是鸡屎藤生长较快的时节,这两个季节都是需要多施肥的,可以每个月施加一次氮磷钾的复合肥,特别是在鸡屎藤长到30厘米的时候,一定要适当的施加肥料,可以时人或者动物的粪肥。在冬季来临之前可以施加一次肥,这样有利于植株过冬。 4、适时除草 露地种植的鸡屎藤很容易受到杂草的影响,如果杂草丛生会抢夺植株生长的养分。在鸡屎藤长到30厘米的时候,需要进行一次除草。等到9~10月份进行收割之后,再进行一次。
三、常见病虫害防治 鸡屎藤的适应能力较强,一般是少有病虫害的侵扰的。但如果养护不当的话,还是容易被蚜虫侵扰的。蚜虫会吸食植株的汁液,导致植株生长受到抑制,虫害严重的话,会导致植株枯萎死亡。 在发现蚜虫后,如果数量少,可以人工的进行灭杀。但一般数量都很多,可以适当的喷施氧化乐果溶液进行防治。一定要增加植株的通风与透光性,这样才能减少病虫的侵害。 结语:看完上面的内容,相信大家应该知道怎么去繁殖鸡屎藤了,如果是大面积栽培的话,比较适合用播种的方法,扦插的话比较麻烦了。
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-07
Miss Chen
在养护金铃花的时候,可能会出现叶子发黄的现象,有些是大面积的,有些只是偶尔出现,金铃花叶子发黄怎么办呢?首先要找到具体的原因,然后对症下药,合理的养护能够让金铃花的叶子恢复正常,且越发的苍翠好看。 一、金铃花叶子发黄后的养护技巧 1、适当修剪 如果只是偶尔有几篇叶子发黄枯萎的话,一般只是植株正常的生理现象,因为长时间不对金铃花进行修剪的话,就会出现叶片老化干枯的现象。此时只要将这发黄枯萎的叶子,及时的修剪掉就行了,还可以适当的修剪一下老化的枝条。 2、补充光照 金铃花比较喜光,在生长过程中如果没有足够的光照,则会导致金铃花枝叶徒长不开花,叶色暗淡逐渐发黄。而为了让金铃花恢复正常,也不能立即将其放在阳光下暴晒,而是要先移到阳光散射充足的地方养护正常后,再接受正常的光照,循序渐进才能让金铃花更快的恢复。 3、改善土质 种植金铃花的土壤一定要有良好的排水透气性,土壤不可板结,PH值也不可过度偏碱,土壤中的肥料也不可过浓导致烧根。这几个原因都有可能导致金铃花的叶子发黄,所以要及时的改善土质,定期的松土和改善PH值是非常有必要的,金铃花喜欢酸性的土壤,平时可以用适量的硫酸铜容易浇土改善。 4、合理控水 在给金铃花浇水的时候,一定要适量不可浇水过多,一旦盆土积水就可能会导致植株烂根。根系腐烂后,水分和养分都没办法供给,导致植株的叶片失水,然后逐渐变黄。如果水浇多了就要及时的排水,增加盆土的排水透气性,这样叶子就会逐渐恢复正常了。
二、金铃花的修剪方法 1、早春修剪 知道了金铃花叶子发黄怎么办,还可以了解一下修剪。对金铃花的修剪最好在早春进行,因为植株在过冬之后难免会出现一些受损的枝条,此时就要将枯枝剪去。除此之外,还可以将所有的金铃花枝条全部剪断,修剪到距离地面大约5~6寸的地方,这样能够刺激新的枝条生长。 2、适时疏剪 在金铃花生长的时候,会长出许多过密过长的枝条,如果枝叶堆积的密不透风了,就要及时的进行疏剪,否则很容易会招来病虫害的。合理的疏剪能够增加植株的通风和透光性,促进生长开花,叶子也会更加的翠绿。 三、金铃花繁殖的方法 金铃花一般用扦插的方法进行繁殖,一般在6~8月进行,选用1~2年生健壮的枝条,将其修剪为10~12厘米左右的插条,把枝条下部分的叶子去掉,就可以扦插了。 扦插的时候将枝条的1/2或1/3埋入土中,然后浇上透水,之后也要保持盆土湿润。如果环境适宜的话,一般在一个月左右就会生根长叶了。 结语:看完上面的内容,相信大家应该知道金铃花叶片发黄的处理方法了,只要有合理的养护,金铃花的叶子一般都会很翠绿的。在养护金铃花的时候,可能会出现叶子发黄的现象,有些是大面积的,有些只是偶尔出现,金铃花叶子发黄怎么办呢?首先要找到具体的原因,然后对症下药,合理的养护能够让金铃花的叶子恢复正常,且越发的苍翠好看。 一、金铃花叶子发黄后的养护技巧 1、适当修剪 如果只是偶尔有几篇叶子发黄枯萎的话,一般只是植株正常的生理现象,因为长时间不对金铃花进行修剪的话,就会出现叶片老化干枯的现象。此时只要将这发黄枯萎的叶子,及时的修剪掉就行了,还可以适当的修剪一下老化的枝条。 2、补充光照 金铃花比较喜光,在生长过程中如果没有足够的光照,则会导致金铃花枝叶徒长不开花,叶色暗淡逐渐发黄。而为了让金铃花恢复正常,也不能立即将其放在阳光下暴晒,而是要先移到阳光散射充足的地方养护正常后,再接受正常的光照,循序渐进才能让金铃花更快的恢复。 3、改善土质 种植金铃花的土壤一定要有良好的排水透气性,土壤不可板结,PH值也不可过度偏碱,土壤中的肥料也不可过浓导致烧根。这几个原因都有可能导致金铃花的叶子发黄,所以要及时的改善土质,定期的松土和改善PH值是非常有必要的,金铃花喜欢酸性的土壤,平时可以用适量的硫酸铜容易浇土改善。 4、合理控水 在给金铃花浇水的时候,一定要适量不可浇水过多,一旦盆土积水就可能会导致植株烂根。根系腐烂后,水分和养分都没办法供给,导致植株的叶片失水,然后逐渐变黄。如果水浇多了就要及时的排水,增加盆土的排水透气性,这样叶子就会逐渐恢复正常了。 二、金铃花的修剪方法 1、早春修剪 知道了金铃花叶子发黄怎么办,还可以了解一下修剪。对金铃花的修剪最好在早春进行,因为植株在过冬之后难免会出现一些受损的枝条,此时就要将枯枝剪去。除此之外,还可以将所有的金铃花枝条全部剪断,修剪到距离地面大约5~6寸的地方,这样能够刺激新的枝条生长。 2、适时疏剪 在金铃花生长的时候,会长出许多过密过长的枝条,如果枝叶堆积的密不透风了,就要及时的进行疏剪,否则很容易会招来病虫害的。合理的疏剪能够增加植株的通风和透光性,促进生长开花,叶子也会更加的翠绿。
v 三、金铃花繁殖的方法 金铃花一般用扦插的方法进行繁殖,一般在6~8月进行,选用1~2年生健壮的枝条,将其修剪为10~12厘米左右的插条,把枝条下部分的叶子去掉,就可以扦插了。 金铃花叶子发黄怎么办,四个养护技巧让叶子苍翠欲滴 扦插的时候将枝条的1/2或1/3埋入土中,然后浇上透水,之后也要保持盆土湿润。如果环境适宜的话,一般在一个月左右就会生根长叶了。 结语:看完上面的内容,相信大家应该知道金铃花叶片发黄的处理方法了,只要有合理的养护,金铃花的叶子一般都会很翠绿的。
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-06
Miss Chen
红叶石楠是一种常见的绿化植物,当然也可以将其当做盆栽种植,而盆栽红叶石楠注意事项一般在花盆、土壤和栽种这几个方面,花盆大小合适、土壤疏松呈微酸性,种植的时候不能埋太深,只要在栽种时处理的好,后期的养护会简单很多。
一、盆栽红叶石楠的三大注意事项 1、栽培容器 将红叶石楠盆栽的方法一般是扦插,也就是选择地栽的扦插苗,然后插在合适的盆土中进行栽培。而花盆容器的选择要根据扦插植株的大小选择,一般是比较宽大的花盆,还要考虑的是排水性以及观赏性,在栽培的时候还要适时的换盆,让植株更好的生长。 2、土壤配制 栽培红叶石楠的介质,最好是肥沃疏松,具有良好排水透气性的土壤,可以用细沙、泥炭土、珍珠岩以及椰糠等介质混合配制,土壤的酸碱值最好保持在5.5~6.5之间,偏微酸性的土壤更有利于植株的生长。 3、上盆换盆 在种植红叶石楠的时候,要注意尽量使植株的根系舒展,枝干要直立,而且不要埋得太深了,不利于根系的发展。在种植时,还可以在土壤中加入一些基肥,给红叶石楠的生长提供充足的养分。只要把控好盆栽红叶石楠注意事项,后期的养护就相对简单了。
二、红叶石楠盆栽的养护技巧 1、适量浇水 给红叶石楠浇水时,要保持盆土稍湿,土壤的水含量在20~35%之间时最好的,但不可积水烂根。如果缺水的话,会抑制红叶石楠的生长,加速叶片的老化。春秋最好一周浇水2~3次,而夏季一天一次,冬季可以一周一次。如果气温过高过干燥,还可以往叶片上喷水保湿。 2、冬季防冻 红叶石楠盆栽的适应环境的能力不强,容易遭受冻害,在冬季的时候可以将红叶石楠盆栽移到室内过冬,防止土壤受冻,这样会导致植株出现生理上的干旱,从而引起植株枯萎死亡。 3、合理施肥 红叶石楠在生长期间需要充足的肥力,最好能够每隔半个月施加一次稀薄氮肥。肥料不要溅到叶片上,以免灼伤叶片。施肥过多容易导致盆土板结,最好定期给盆栽松土,否则不利于浇水施肥。 4、适时修剪 在冬季的时候,一般要给红叶石楠进行一定的修剪。红叶石楠一般在早春2月会萌发新芽,如果不修剪的话,会让植株变的过密过杂,大大降低观赏价值。修剪主要以短截和疏剪为主,让植株根据之前的造型生长即可。 5、病虫防治 冬季的时候,红叶石楠会进入休眠期,是比较容易遭受病虫入侵的。为了减少病虫害,需要将红叶石楠上的病枝枯枝等全部剪掉,对土壤也要适当的消毒处理,避免第二年春季的时候病虫爆发,影响生长。 结语:看完上面的内容,相信大家应该知道养护盆栽红叶石楠时需要注意的事项了,栽培的盆土就像是坚实的基础,基础打的好,之后的养护才会简单。
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-06
Miss Chen
很多养花新手,甚至老手(养过很久很多花依然养死的那种),在给家里养的植物浇水时总是把握不好那个度,或溺死或枯死了心爱的植物。这一次,植物之家综合各路英雄的看法,给大家整理一份家养植物浇水真经,慢慢看耐心看哦~~ “见干见湿”、“不干不浇,浇则浇透”,靠谱吗? 相信绝大部分人都看过或听过这两个浇水原则,特别是养花新手被告诫得更多。这两句话其实差不多在表达同一个意思,是广大养花人总结出来的浇水经验而非真理,再说了,真理还不一定放诸四海而皆准呢,何况是经验总结。 我们并不是要否定这条经验。事实上,其实这句话更多的是说给新手听的,因为大多数新手对于养花都是小心翼翼的,生怕花花草草短了水缺了肥,所以新手养死的花里至少一半是由于水浇多了“淹”死的。“不干不浇”最大的意义就是防止浇水过频,这一句话就可以拯救一大批花。 “不干不浇”是因为当肉眼看见盆土表面干了,但底部泥土以及植物根部依然会有水分存留,此时浇水会令根部水分过多,导致根的呼吸作用无法进行,根会腐烂。“浇则浇透” 为了根系可以吸收花盆底部的水分从而向下长,如果浇水只浇到浅层的话会使植物的根变浅,不利于生长。 打个比方,很多的多肉植物在夏季是属于休眠期,休眠期过程中植物的代谢减缓,植物根系活力降低。此时的多肉根本不需要太多水,同样的水分量在夏季会造成令多肉的根系受损。这就是为什么干透浇透在夏季不能采用在多肉植物的原因。 然而,家养植物大体上分为水生、湿生、中生、半耐旱、耐旱五大类,每类植物对水分的需求量不同,因此上述两个浇水原则不是万能的,不能适用于所有植物。就是说,给植物浇水要根据其生长习性区别对待,从而掌握适合本地气候的养殖方法,才能做到科学合理。 如此品类繁多的植物,到底要怎么浇水才科学合理? 总的来说,所有植物在不同季节浇水时间应有所区别。为了缩小水与盆土的温差,春秋两季适合在上午或下午浇;冬季应在中午温度稍暖时浇;至于夏季,有一种说法“晨水是甘露,午水是砒霜,晚水救命汤”,因此,应在早晨或晚上浇水。
*注意,当水与土的温差超过5℃,根系生长会受到严重影响,甚至造成植物死亡。 根据自然的客观条件和植株的客观需要,浇水时我们可以这样对不同植物进行区别对待: 1.草本花多浇,木本花少浇。 2.喜湿花多浇,喜旱花少浇。 3.叶大质软的多浇,叶小有蜡质的少浇。 4.旺盛生长期多浇,休眠期少浇。 5.苗大盆小多浇,苗小盆大少浇。 6.庭院、阳台、天台养花多浇,居室配置的盆花少浇。 7.天热时多浇,天冷时少浇。 8.晴天多浇,阴天少浇。 9.孕蕾多浇,开花少浇。 最后简单粗暴概况一下,对于耐旱花卉,浇水应掌握“宁干勿湿”的原则,不能积水;而对于湿生花卉,则要依循“宁湿勿干”的原则,不能脱水;所以了解你家植物的习性十分重要。
要注意不小心遇上植物过旱和过涝的处理方法: 1、如果植物干旱脱水,枝叶萎蔫,不能直接大量浇水,否则容易伤根脱叶,正确的做法是要先移放到阴凉处,向叶面喷水,花盆内加少量水,等到茎叶恢复挺拔,再浇透水。 2、当遇到暴雨过后或其他原因来不及清理,花盆长时间积水,枝叶萎蔫失神时,要将植株带土移出,放置于阴凉通风处,令其迅速透气、散发水分,等三五天恢复后再重新上盆。 养花最大的难题就是浇水,掌握了浇水方法就可以很轻松地把花养“活”,而要养“好”还是需要积累足够多的经验,掌握光照,施肥,修剪等各方面的技巧,我们要做的就是慢慢学习,认真实践,并享受个中乐趣。今天的浇水真经,你学会了吗?
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-05
Miss Chen
Although Brussel sprouts date back to ancient Rome, they're named for the city of Brussels, Belgium, where they have been enjoyed since the 14th century. Part of the cabbage family, Brussels sprouts can be grown in just about any home vegetable garden as long as you have patience—they are slow-growing plants that require a long growing season. If you seen Brussels sprouts only in the grocery store, you will delight in the striking appearance of their plant form: The numerous mini cabbage heads form along thick, 30-inch-tall stalks, along with bold, jutting stems and broad, cabbage-like leaves. The leaves are also edible and can be prepared like other hardy greens. Like other vegetables in the Brassicaceae family, Brussels sprouts taste best after they have been subjected to cool weather. Usually, that means harvesting after a light frost or a snow. In cooler climates, they are best planted in early summer for a fall harvest. In warmer climates, they should be planted in late summer for a late fall or winter harvest.
Common Name Brussels sprouts Botanical Name Brassica oleracea (Gemmifera group) Family Brassicaceae Plant Type Annual vegetable Size 30 in. tall, 8 to 12 in. wide Sun Exposure Full sun Soil Type Loamy Soil pH Neutral (6.5 to 7) Bloom Time Non-flowering Flower Color Non-flowering Hardiness Zones 2 to 9 Native Area Mediterranean How to Plant Brussels Sprouts Brussels sprouts require a long growing season of 80 days or more, and they improve in flavor after being subjected to a light frost. In colder climates, you can start brussels sprouts seeds indoors around early May, and transplant the seedlings to the garden in mid-June, or about four months before the first fall frost. Plant only after the last spring frost. Be sure to allow the full time outdoors for required days to harvest. In warmer climates, fall planting is preferred. You should be able to direct seed in mid-summer for a late fall or early winter harvest. Brussels Sprouts Care Light The plants will grow and sprout best in full sun and need at least 6 hours of sun daily. Too much shade will slow the sprouts' maturity. Soil Brussels sprouts like a slightly acidic to neutral soil that is fertile, well-drained and moist, with plenty of organic matter. The soil pH should be between 6.5 and 7. A good amount of organic matter will help maintain the moisture they need for their intense growth. Brussels sprouts like the soil around them to be firm, but not compacted. Pat it down lightly. Water Keep the sprouts' soil moist but not soaked, giving it between 1 and 1.5 inches of water per week. Temperature and Humidity Brussels sprouts prefer temperatures between 45 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They'll tolerate a couple of days below freezing, and even improve their flavor with a bit of light frost. This is not a warm-weather crop—sprouts that mature during hot or dry weather will be bitter and flimsy. Fertilizer Fertilize Brussels sprout plants twice a season with a nitrogen fertilizer—once when the plants are about 12 inches high and again four weeks later. Types of Brussels Sprouts 'Bubbles' F1 (85 to 90 days to maturity): This variety tolerates heat and drought, and grows 2-inch sprouts that are resistant to powdery mildew and rust. 'Jade Cross' F1 and "Jade Cross E" F1 (90 days): Jade Cross was a 1959 All-America Selections Winner. Both are compact plants that are good for windy locations. The sprouts are slightly larger on 'Jade Cross E.' Good disease-resistance. 'Long Island Improved'OP (90 days): This variety is another small but high-yield plant that stands up to wind and tolerates freezing. 'Oliver' F1 (85 days): An early producer, the 1-inch sprouts are easy to pick and the compact plant is disease-resistant. 'Royal Marvel' F1 (85 days): ''Royal Marvel' is an early and productive plant that is resistant to bottom rot and tip burn. 'Rubine' (85 to 95 days): These heirloom purple plants are late-maturing and lower-yield than green varieties but have good flavor. Harvesting Brussels sprouts take about three to four months from transplant before you can begin harvesting. They grow tall first and don't start producing sprouts until they reach almost full height. Each sprout grows in the leaf axil or joint. They begin maturing from the bottom of the plant upward. Start harvesting when the lower sprouts reach the size of large marbles. Pick the sprouts before they get too large and start cracking and turning bitter. Pulling off the sprouts is easier if you remove the leaf below the sprout first, then twist and pull the sprout. Some people prefer to cut, rather than pull the sprouts. Each plant yields approximately a quart of sprouts total. After harvesting, a second crop of Brussels sprouts may begin to grow at the base of the stem. These will not be as tight as the first buds, but they are still edible. The leafy tops are also edible and can be cooked as greens. Cutting the tops is a good way to speed up the development of the remaining sprouts, at the end of the season.
To extend your Brussels sprouts harvest in cold seasons, mulch plants with straw and/or cover with a row cover for protection. Whole plants can be pulled, potted and stored in a root cellar. Bare root plants stored in a cool cellar will give you an additional two to three weeks of harvest. How to Grow Brussels Sprouts From Seed If you live in an area with cold winters, start your seeds indoors about two to three weeks before the last spring frost. For areas with mild winters, start the seeds outdoors in the early to mid-summer for a mid-fall or early winter harvest. If you live in a region with warm winters—where temperatures are rarely below freezing—start seeds outdoors in the late summer for a mid- to late-winter harvest. Cover the seeds with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of soil, and keep the soil moist. Space seeds for outdoor plants about 2 feet apart with 3 feet between rows, or stagger plants 2 feet apart in each direction, for a grid layout. When the plants are about 6 inches tall, thin them as needed to a spacing of 12 to 24 inches. Transplant indoor seedlings to the garden when they are about 3 inches tall. It is very important that you do not allow the seedlings to become root bound or the plants will remain stunted when transplanted. Common Pests and Diseases Brussels sprouts are prone to the same problems as cabbage and broccoli. The most common pests are cabbage looper, imported cabbage worm, cabbage root maggot, aphids, and Harlequin bug. Because this is a late-season crop, you have time to monitor for problems before the sprouts start forming. Diseases include blackleg, black rot, and clubroot. Disease control is best achieved by rotating the crop each year. Clubroot is diminished when you raise the soil pH to about 7.0.
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Artículo
Miss Chen
12-05
Miss Chen
养殖多肉最害怕什么?对!就是冬季,因为几乎所有的多肉都是来自热带地区不怕热倒是怕冷,所以一到冬季多肉们就不老实了,各种小毛病各种烦。下面是一位养殖了多肉多年的资深花友分享的养殖多肉的心得,借此希望一次性把大家的疑问全部解决掉。 多肉植物越冬问题大全
北方地区冬季花友的家里温暖干燥(有暖气就是任性),南方花友的家里阴冷潮湿(宝宝心里苦但宝宝不说.....),所以在养护上有很大差异。冬天来临后无根的多肉植物就不要再买啦!特别是网络上购买后经过运输对植物损伤较大,到家后栽种好又没有合适的环境能够让植物恢复。这时想要恢复,所需要花费的时间也会比其他季节多上好几倍。当然根系健壮或者花市上带土带盆的多肉还是可以购买滴~ 一、多肉植物的越冬安全温度: 1、室内环境最低温高于0度即可安全过冬。 2、室外温度低于5度,拿进室内或阳台内。 3、南方阴冷地区,短时间零下5度至0度,露养无太大压力。(非幼苗) 4、冬季如果能保持最低温度在10度以上,多肉植物们会正常生长。 5、部分露养品种耐寒,零下15度以内都没问题:长生草、景天属草类 6、风大的地区室外温度低于10度时,莲花掌、银波锦一类多肉植物要迅速拿回室内。(黑法师、熊童子等)
二、多肉植物越冬浇水要领: 其实南北方差异并不是很大,关键在于植物的状态大小,如果是比较弱小的幼苗,那么它所需要的水分会多一些,可以频繁少量浇水,保持土壤有一点湿度。并且尽量把它们放在更加温暖的地方,一个较为稳定的环境里生长。而成年大颗的多肉植物抵抗力会强很多,浇水一定要少,特别强壮的甚至一个月一滴水不浇也没问题。南方江浙沪地区直接露养也完全可以的,其中必定会有一些死亡,可以根据经验判断选择哪些品种露养,一部分对水分、低温敏感的品种可以拿回到阳台内。 北方地区浇水最适合的是喷洒方式,小苗、成株通吃,同时还可以清洗掉叶片表面的灰尘,更利于植物健康成长。也发现喷水方式可以让肉肉们的颜色上得更快。小苗频繁少量浇水,成株一般可以15-20天浇水一次。当然,这个绝对不能恒定,每个家庭的环境都是不同的,如果家里暖气比较给力,可能4-5天就要浇水一次。 三、多肉植物越冬养护: 这类就更好说了,一定一定一定少浇水,组盆里的植物太多,特别是有草一类的。浇水太多后很容易腐烂化水,然后就会连锁反应集体自杀。可以通过观察草类状态来浇水,注意少量就好~ 日照嘛~ 依旧是狂晒!放在窗台上就很好了!
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0
Artículo
Miss Chen
12-05
Miss Chen
对于“多肉出状态”这个行内专用名词,新入肉坑的花友可能不知道是什么意思,其实就是指对多肉植物的最新状态的一种表述,因为多肉植物并不是一年四季是一个样子,在秋季温差大的时候,大多的多肉植物会呈现另一种状态。请搬好小板凳,且听小编我为各位细细道来!
多肉出状态变红了 何谓多肉植物出状态 上面已经说过,多肉植物出状态就是它随季节产生的最新状态的一种表述; 一般来说多肉植物在生长期呈现绿色,在秋季温差大,光照增强的时候,多肉植物会呈现红色,或者粉色,红边等颜色状态,这就是多肉出状态。和秋天到了枫叶变红了的意思差不多。
多肉植物出状态的秘诀(国外版) 有花友翻译了国外网站,下面我们来看看韩国人是如何然多肉出状态的,仅供参考: 1、韩国的景天颜色那么鲜艳有秘诀吗? 答: 温度,阳光充足时喷冷水。注意是喷不是浇,会烂的,让叶面上平均沾上水珠就足够了,阳光直射后土和叶面的温度很高,用0-5度的冷水喷,蒸发吸热,人工制造大温差,观察棒子的博客更新时间会发现喷水频率比较频繁,且多数植株叶子上有轻微点状灼伤,这就是强光时喷水的证据。 光照,当然也是最重要的前提就是光照最大化,否则仅制造温差还是不够的。 用土,前期适当加入泥炭给植株足够的养分,等足够强壮后逐渐变为养分贫瘠的全颗粒如赤玉珍珠岩蛭石等(也不要加肥),这时生长速度会变慢但老叶也会降低老化速度,而显现出色彩 2、为什么别人的肉晒后是鲜艳的粉红而我的是猪肝色的? 答:干燥和温差小。充足的日照配合足够的湿度才能让色彩更萌,看似不太可能的条件其实很简单,可以参照第二条制造温差的方法。如果养殖环境温差足够大,每日植物清晨自己就会产生露珠。
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